PDA

View Full Version : walk behind vs tractor.....




sharon159
03-21-2004, 01:07 AM
we will be moving into our new home in 6 wks, been doing research on mowers, would like to hear from anyone that has a commerical grade walk behind mower, or a tractor. Been reading up on the 2180 Cub Cadet, also...the Quick 36 by Better Outdoor Products. So.....like to hear what your thoughts are on what you have....need to decide in the next few weeks. Thanks




lynnspain
03-21-2004, 03:30 AM
Hi I have used both types and it really does depend on the size and how level your lawn is. If you have uneven surfaces and lots of little nooks and crannys I suggest a walk behind. Far easier to control and do edges. If you have a LARGE flat open area then sit down while you work.

If you want the exercise then walking is best of course.

We do have a lot of problems with batteries on the sit on. They are always going flat. Could be just ours but it is a nuisance. Also there is far more to go wrong on a sit on. The walk behind is more basic.

For me I would have a walk behind, keep it simple, less to break down and to figure out. Then i am a woman on my own and i hate having to call somone out over a simple thing.

Another factor - A walk behind can be (depending on it's size of course) taken to a shop to be fixed. A sit on they have to come to you.

Have fun
Lynn

Beany
03-21-2004, 03:03 PM
I agree, it depends on the lawn size and level vs. hilly. If you do go with a walk behind, but don't like the idea of "pushing", they do have self-propelled push mowers. If you live where there is snow, they also sell self-propelled snow blowers.

Our experience is to go with a John Deere mower. You pay more up front, but the quality and life of the mower pays for itself in a few years. My father-in-law still uses his John Deer riding mower which is 36 years old! And our John Deere is 30 years old (used to be my father-in-law's).

My brother-in-law bought a cheaper brand from Lowes or Sears (can't remember which one). But after two years, had to replace the engine. It just couldn't keep up with the weekly mowing of their 1 acre, bumpy yard. Also, he seized the engine, and had to replace it AGAIN after running it out of oil. ALWAYS check that your oil, fuel and other liquid levels are always at the levels they should be.

Also, never mow when the grass is wet, it is VERY hard on the mower and its engine. Also, after every use, with a heavy duty putty knife or tool, scrape off the grass and crud that builds up under the deck (where the blades are) - be sure the mower is off before you do this. If you hit something (rocks, etc.) always check your blades to see if they got bent or twisted. To help reduce maintenance cost, you can remove the cutting blades and take them to the repair shop to have the blades sharpened (or do it yourself with a vice and the right tool you can buy from a dealer). You can do this several times before having to actually replace the blades.

As far as repair, if you have a pick-up truck or trailer, you can always put the push mower or riding mower in that and haul it to the repair shop.

I'm probably giving you too much info. But I figured what the heck....while I was on the subject. How do I know so much? My dh was a small engine mechanic, and still fixes the family's and neighbors mowers, weedeaters, chainsaws, etc.

Party Poker | Bar Mitzvah Invitations